Type of primers and finishes

Well by now  a lot of modelers have gotten the bad news about Tamiya discontinuing it’s primers… all of them!!! dear god I was so pissed when I found out, tamiya made fine primers, so since I’m working with 6 kits right now … well actually 7 but Rei is on standby LOL.

So with this recent news, I was worried on where and how to get a good primer that will work for resin casts, so here are my findings and maybe this can help you out as well as it did me.

around $5 dollars

I went to my local Michael’s store and bought a “craft” primer, Design Master was the name, but it’s consistency is extremely liquid  and it clogs easely  spraying huge drops on your pieces and it will leave you with a very clumpy finish.

As you can see I’m not a very happy camper with this finish, but I already tried to prime my parts with  automotive primer which was worse because it was too thick,to had to take it off and do it again all over since the thinner also took away my puttied areas :S So I just decided to polish these parts, so DON’T use any “craft primers if you don’t want this type of finishing.

Was around $8 dollars

For those of you that wanted to try out Tamiya’s primer but have not been able to use it, well… in case you find any now here’s how the finishing looks like:

I personally loved this smooth finish, so if you can come across any of this stuff… STOCK UP!!! because it has been sold out and discontinued for months.

Around $4 dollars

Now for those of you that have indeed used Tamiya and are like the same as me trying to find a good replacement, I have some good news, I did find a primer at my local walmart (you can find it at any local paint store) I found out that Krylon carries a good primer that is almost as good as Tamiya’s finish, the only difference is that this one is a little on the dark side, but the other good news is that it also comes in white in case you don’t like the idea of priming and then adding a white base to all the piece (s) before you actually start painting; now it’s important that you choose the regular primer NOT the automotive one, that one is too thick and will not leave you with what you want, this is what you’ll end up with:

Pretty acceptable in my opinion.

Now after all this, today I was actually lucky, my hobby store where I would normally buy my tamiya primers, well not anymore, now carry the Mr. Hobby white Surfacer 1000 spray can, although it’s white, it’s equal or even better than tamiya’s primer, so I ACTUALLY STOCKED UP ON THIS STUFF (this is a little bit more expensive than tamiya but it’s worth it, it’s around $10 dollars), it’s so weird since tamiya has less “toxic” hazard than Mr. Hobby that this hobby store and a lot of others online carry it more now… it’s just very puzzling, so here are my two cents on primers, I hope this helps you as well as it has helped me.

13 thoughts on “Type of primers and finishes

    • I was only referring to Tamiy USA 🙂 I know Japan still produces primers but, with new laws on toxic fumes and I don’t know what else, they stopped importing all the tamiya primers and I think thinners are in there too :/

  1. Se lo que dices has intentdao lavar tu figura con axion con tricloro (el jabom para lavar trastes) yo los dejo de 1 a 2 dias remojando y no batallo nada para que se adhiera la pintura, al contrario batallo para quitarla (>_>)
    voy a seguir tu sitio para ver cual es tu nueva figura 🙂

  2. Gracias por mostrar la comparación de las diferentes marcas, pero ¿en verdad necesitas el primer? yo solamente lo utilizo cuando la figura tiene pequeñas burbujas, si no tiene ni para que, uno es gasto de oquis, dos tienes que usar Mr white y en ocasiones por x o z razon la pintura sale mal tienes que repintar y hay que hacer todo el proceso nuevamente. Pero es solo mi humilde opinion 😉

    • pues en lo personal yo he intentado pintar sin primer, pero la pintura simplemente no sequeda en su lugar, se escurre y se le caia facilmente, si tu no tienes ese problema pues tienes suerte XD pero yo al menos no y creo que mucha gente igual, por lo que usamos primers, pero pues es mejor buscar uno baraton pero que sirva bien para poder trabajr con el como se quiera.

  3. Wow, I’m surprised it gave you guys so much trouble cause I love this stuff lol I always stay really far back from the item I’m spraying, but I primered a 1/8 kit of Archer Rain and she didn’t lose any detail, maybe I stayed far enough away from her and did really light mists. It does spray a lot of paint, I noticed an accumulation of it on my scrap paper after spraying, so I may decant it.

    Krylon is always good stuff. About the Michael’s coupons, I work there. Sign up on their website to get the coupons emailed to you. They’re really good about it, I get some like once a week or so.

  4. Aish, que suerte que puedas conseguir imprimacion tan barata ahi >_<! Aqui en España todos los materiales de maquetismo son carisimos, un bote de imprimacion ronda los 10-12 euros de media 😦 9 los mas baratos y 16 los mas caros, y te hablo de marcas que ni fu ni fa…yo me pille 4 botes de Mr.Resin primer y Mr.Surfacer hace tiempo en HLJ y voy tirando de ellos, me encanta el acabado, pero HLJ ya los ha descatalogado y ni siquiera aparecen en la web…y el disolvente es muy dificil de encontrar tambien, y ademas lo cobran a 15 euros la botella de 400ml (mas otros 6 pavos de envio, que es una tienda online…). Y por ultimo el future! aqui sencillamente…no existe! xDD

    Soy Melodie del foro de E2046 ^^!

    • Pues no has intentado comprarlos en ebay o alguna otra tienda por ahi? no me imagine que costaban tan caros por alla :S y en EUROS XD como a cuanto esta el intercambio? 1 dll = 1.8 Euros o algo asi no? omg que caro XD

  5. Yeah, I work for Michael’s and I would stay away from any spray paints that aren’t a known name brand or one that a friend has tested out already. They carry Krylon stuff, or at least mine does.

    I wished you would have tried the Rust-Oleum I use, it’s wonderful, if not a little dark. But Krylon is certainly always an acceptable choice, and it’s readily available too.

    • Well actually I did try the rust oleum automotive primer in the first place and it was dead awful >_< it was really thick and made a lot of tiny details disappeared from the pieces… that's why I had to strip it off with thinner and that's when the thinner also strip out my already puttied areas :S so it didn't work for me, it's now on my wall of shame XD along with the other primer from Michael's XD

      • That’s the same problem I’m having right now too with Rustoleum. It’s coming on really thick and gathering a few little lumps here and there. The thickness is good for hiding scratches, but it’s a mess to sand. I won’t be using it anymore and really hoping the Krylon works because Michael’s always has 40%-50% off coupons.

  6. Thanks for this post. Helped a lot! I go to Michael’s for most of my hobby supplies, so that primer scared me. Gonna give Krylon a shot and see if I can find a small can of Mr. Surfacer to mess with.

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: